Nov 14 - Arrived At 8000 Feet; No Sickness Yet

Today was a traveling day to San Pedro de Atacama, in northern Chile, just west of southern Bolivia tip.

While at the airport I checked in with the Delta office and they had my coat! Yay! I had picked up a packable, waterproof windbreaker yesterday for my plan B. But it is so small and light, I can see using it here and in the future.

We flew in (or maybe I should say up) and then had a 1 hour+ ride to the hotel. This city really is in the middle of nowhere. 

Along the way to our hotel, we got a taste of Moon and Death Valley. It was magnificent and stark. (My picture is taken through a filtered window, so I'm not sure what the true colors are.) I look forward to seeing more and hearing the history tomorrow.

The hotel is cute. There was even a small bottle of brut and chocolate in my room. The porter told me if I drank it tonight, there would be another tomorrow... if I have too.

We had dinner at the hotel restaurant - excellent food and reasonably priced. Then we walked around town - if you can call it that. There is a "main" street (not even sure it is a mile long) and not much more - pretty much just restaurants and shops.  I did find a North Face store - I guess there really is one everywhere. 

So far, no altitude sickness. Not sure how much walking we will do in the Moon and Death Valley tomorrow, but I am choosing to be optimistic.  

Nov 13 - Chile, here I come!

So, I'd been in Chile less then 1 hour, and I had already lost three items from my luggage. I only brought a carry-on bag and backpack so everything I have is critical. 

First, I left a pair of underwear and a tank top at my nieces in Virginia, then I left my winter coat on the plane. I bought replacement tank top on the way to the airport, but it's not nearly as good. I bought a windbreaker in Santiago. I'm hoping that, with 32° long underwater, I will be warm enough when we go south ans hit really cold weather. That, or my coat shows up. 

Only 2 of us are going on the two extensions; everyone else is just doing the main trip. Luckily, I like Mary Jo, since we will be spending a lot of time together. 

After settling in our rooms,  we went for a walk. We took an elevator to the lookout deck of the Gran Torre Santiago, at 64 stories, it is the tallest building in South America. The lookout deck is on the 61st & 62nd floor. The view was amazing. It was a little confusing at first where things were, but in the end we got a better perspective of Santiago in short time. 

Three city is huge - over 7M people!

1st half of the city - includes the old part

Newer part, on the other side of the river

Despite the size, their urban planning is fantastic. I didn't see any traffic jams. They make use of tunnels both for driving underground, as well as limiting "crosswalks".  There were parks on top of some of the tunnels. What was interesting was the tunnels with grates overhead. Maybe to let the air or light in? I'm sure there's a purpose.

That's it for today. Tomorrow we're on to San Pedro de Atacama in the northern part of the country. It's almost 8,000 feet above sea level. (Coca tea, here I come!)

Bonus pictures:

Santiago is in a valley of the Andes.

Love the storm coming in.

Murals popular on river walls. Many commissioned. My favorite were on the way from airport.

On The Way To The Pygmies

Didn't sleep well because of sore legs and knee. I was tired and considered staying at the lodge instead of climbing today, but know it's likely I won't be back here again.  So I went off on my hike redux.

We did go slower, but just standing, especially on inclines, was sore. I got a porter again and he was a big help (the are some female porters too, I just didn't have one). I knew we were going back to where we saw the pygmy yesterday, then veering off on another path. For some reason, it hadn't seemed so far up yesterday. When we got to the where the path splits off, the lady from yesterday was there with 2 more people about her age (whatever that is - even they don't know) and younger ones (I think one was in her teens and the other 20s). 

We walked with them as they told us about their life and culture through our guide/interpreter (they did not speak English). At one point the guide was showing us something and they disappeared. We started after them and met the old man. I sat down, and the next thing I know, the young girl and one of the old ladies popped out of the brush beside me. They had built a home that was completely hidden so they could hunt for animals. 

The old man was hilarious - quite the actor. He started by showing us how they found bees nests and got the honey out. He claimed that bees poop and they follow it. He started a fire with just two sticks  and smoked the [fake] bees out. He pretended to eat some of the honey and got "stung" a few times as he filled his bag with "honey". 

Their clothes were made from tree pulp by removing the bark, stripping off just what was needed (by rolling thin strips off) and leaving it to renew its bark and live.  

They showed us what types of houses they used to have. There were several ones made out of sticks that were for everyday use, then one in a tree for when worried about wild animals. One of our guys climbed to the "tree house", and out popped 5 pygmy's. Yet he was so tall his whole body couldn't fit in.  

Everybody joined in to give us an example of traditional songs and dances. We were invited to join in if we wanted, but no one did.  

They shared with us various herbs and there uses. Our guide confirmed that a few worked, but there was one that was hilarious: If you do something that you shouldn't have (like hit a person over the head and kill them), and you have eye witness testimony, you rub the plant all over your body and everyone will be convinced you are innocent and the judge will dismiss the case. (yeah, riiiiight)

Man of nine thousand deaths

They showed different kinds of snares the pygmy's used. Each was focused on different types of animals. One was for small animals, and when they engage the trigger, a rope would strangle the animal and it died.  A second snare, for slightly larger animals, captured an animal by its foot (they admitted this one the animal could chew off their foot and get away, but would eventually die). The 3rd one, we were told, would kill all animals, every time. When triggered, a rock would smash the animals head. All of the snares were made out of wood, vines, rocks, and other items in nature, yet were quite sophisticated. And each time, the old man would use a stick to show the animal approaching the snare. Then when it died, he would take on the role of the animal and act it out with great drama. We nicknamed him the "man of nine thousand deaths" because of the number of times he "died" throughout the day.  

Bringing the deer & bow/arrows out

Last we got to shoot three arrows using a bow. I hit a "deer's" leg twice.  The guide informed us that was a maim, but no kill, therefore no dinner for me. A couple of other people hit the fake deer (one on the belly), but no one was able to puncture the skin of the "deer". Then the guide showed us how it is done, and we were able to eat lunch.  

What's amazing,is that the pygmies were living this way up until 1991, when the government took over their land to make a national forest. Some groups purchased neighboring lands, and they have been handed back to the pygmies. They stand on the fence between educating their kids in the schools, yet also teaching them their traditions and culture, so it is not lost. (Their original language is already lost.)

The way down the mountain was once again scary, but the porter made a point of showing me where to put my feet, as well as holding my hands most of the time to help me not slip and fall.  

When we got back, I had a beer, iced my leg, and rested before dinner. After dinner, I took a pill to help with leg pain and sleeping.  Glad to have a break for my knees, since I'm not sure I could do another day of walking.

Heading home tomorrow.