Walking A Glacier - Nov 3

The weather in Iceland is crazier than back home. We joke about waiting 10 minutes and the weather will change. They mean it literally. Or just drive 10 minutes. Yesterday went from cloudy to rain to snow to sunshine. Earlier I heard someone in the lobby comment how it had been snowing in the back of the hotel and sunny in the front. His friends response, "that's Iceland".

I'm heading off for a hike on a glacier. It's a little over 2 hours away, so the guide filled us in with fun facts. It's interesting to compare the different" fun facts " from the various guides I've had.

• When Eyjafjallajökull volcano erupted, everyone from Reykjavik went east to see. The ash spread only to the east, so Reykjavik not effected.  The reason it spew so much ash is because of the glacier on top of it. Those that do not have glacier/snow on top of it do not blow ash.  When happened, lava ash from on roofs 5 feet deep. Animals had to go inside (many stay out even in winter). Ash sucks oxygen out of air so can suffocate is not inside.
• 70% of vegetables, strawberries, and small amount of bananas are grown in greenhouses so they don't have to import them (note, these are 100% organic).

We arrived at the Solheimajokull glacier.  This is about an hour before the glacier lake I went to the other day, although once they were the same glacier.

After a hike to get to the base of the glacier, we put our clamp ons on, picked up our axea, and headed up the glacier. The beginning was very narrow and step, and I  wondered what I was thinking. 

Especially as we're walking in rain/sleet, and he's telling us what not to do and explaining why he has 130 feet of rope (to throw to us if we fail in a device or hole). Then I figured I only have to do it th weis once, and if I don't like it, never again. Besides It's too late to back out now.

Once we got to the flat part, it was much easier, but we also moved at a faster pace. It helped that the rain stopped. In fact it gave me the second rainbow of the day, and it was a double rainbow, full arc. I swear this place needs to be marked the rainbow capital of the world. (The upside to all the rain).

We went to a small hole that was put into the glacier and a rope lowered down to measure the height of it. Since May, it has gone down 8 meters. There is volcanic ash all over the glacier. This is from an eruption of Ketla in 1918, which is in the layer of ice melting now.

The view was beautiful, and the sun was setting.  I got some great pictures. We stopped at a stream in the glacier to drink glacier water, but you had to do a pushup so you wouldn't get your clothes wet in the ice.  One guy did it, but no one else was willing, so I agreed to do it, modifying it to a "girls" push up. After that a few others did it, avoiding the pushup approach. A couple of people had water bottles they filled.  I guess I "broke the ice" (I couldn't resist). If you think about it, the water we drank would have been from snow that turned to ice about a hundred years ago. No wonder it tasted so good. It aged well.

We started down. Then at one point, about 2/3 down, we start going up again. I had no idea why. These sun was about to set and I knew the narrow path we had at the end, but up we went. The guide took us to a place that has some small, well I'll say caverns, but that implies bigger than they were. But these mini caverns. It was cool, and well worth the detour. And we made it down before sunset, though not by much. Being up on a glacier near sunset made for some great photos.

So this is wild. The snow accumulates until it is 100 feet deep, then it is heavy enough to flatten and form less than 1 INCH of glacier ice.  So this glacier, which is 1000 feet deep at its deepest, was formed from 2,000,000 feet of snow. Crazy.

After the hike ended, we visited the same two falls I visited the day of the glacier lagoon, but at night. I finally figured out how to get my camera to work with night shots, so was able to get pictures. What was even cooler, we ate dinner at a restaurant (traditional lamb stew and skyr w/ bilberries). And out guide went outside for something and told us all to come out and see the northern lights. There was a decent display. Still white/gray to the naked eye, but a pretty green in a picture. Someone told me earlier that the aperature of the eye is not as good as the camera, thus the difference in colors. I had been reading up on how to set my camera for the lights, and was able to get some decent pictures. It might have been better with a tripod, but it worked quite nicely. When we got to the second waterfall, the lights were all over, including some above the waterfall.

On our way home, almost to Reykjavik, we encountered a few inches of snow. It's the first time since I've between here, that I've seen enough snow to accumulate.

All in all, a great last excursion.  I'm sort of glad this trip got pushed off until now. I would not have seen the northern lights the other nights, and i met some nice people both on this tour and on my substitute tour.   I'm especially glad i got to see the lights, not once, but there times. I get the impression not everybody is this lucky.

So tomorrow I leave for the airport at 1:30. In the afternoon. I'm thinking I'll go to the Nauthólsvík beach in the morning, one last time before I leave. Then it's off for home, arriving Thursday morning.

I Fell in Love With Snaefellsnes - Nov 2

Today I went to Snaefellsnes National Park.  I could easily spend a week here. Up to now I have had a great time, but felt I did everything I wanted to here and could crossed Iceland of my list. After today, I might try to come back again just to spend some time here.

As we drove to the park, we passed lots of landscape. One of the more interesting was the basalt rocks. These are old lava tubeuis from the oldest eruptions (pre ice age, >17,000 years ago). The land around the tubes have eroded from wind, leaving what looks like giant snakes, turned to stone, on the ground.

Moss is the first thing to grow on the lava field. There are 600 species of moss in Iceland! That's why there are so many of these mossed covered lava fields.

Our first stop was at the basalt walk. It started drizzling. Then we stopped at the beach, where you can sometimes see seals. Saw lots of seal poop, not so many seals today.  I did see one pop his head out of the water a couple of times, so at least I can crossed that offer my list.  It has a beautiful view, although I was getting pelted by rain and hail.

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We stopped at a church near one of the few beaches with both basalt and volcanic rock.  We stopped several more times to take walks to the shore. By now the rain had largely stopped.  I got to see my first of two rainbows (both full arcs).  The shoreline and cliffs were beautiful. I could easily spend a week in this National park alone. At one of the stops, there huge rocks on the coast. It reminded me of the 12 apostle formation in Australia.

At the heart of the park is the glacier, Snaefellsjokull.  Unfortunately it is melting very fast, and likely it will be gone in 50-70 years.  Because of the clouds cover, I was able to see the lower part of the mountain that the glacier is on, but not the glacier itself.

See the face in this stone formation?

So to fill the car time, we were regardless with many facts and folklore.  Below are some I thought of interest:

• There aare two types of river. Glacier rivers that are clear and clean. From a distance they look milky white (and in typical Icelandic fashion, there is a trip story that it is excess milk from a new troll mother). The other rivers are dirty from AOL the mud, etc it picks up.
• One third of population lives in Reykjavik. If you include the suburbs, is 2/3 of the country's total population.
• There are 2.5 times more sheep than people.  
• Icelanders go biking all year long. In winter, they add spikes to the tires and continue biking (I can't imagine biking in 20°-30° weather).
• There are a couple of foreign smelting plants. They import the materials and export the output. They are only here because of the inexpensive energy costs offsets the import/export costs.
• Turf houses were the primary house in the country through the early 20th century. They resisted going to concrete houses until they found a way to heat with geothermal please (1920). The houses were built to a specific size, so that the body heat of the occupants could heat the house.
• Iceland was a dry country until turn off the century (because it was a church state). They exported cod to Spain. Spain said they would stop buying unless Iceland started importing wine from them. They chose to lift the ban on alcohol.
• They have a few prisons, but they're small - the largest holds 85. They have a waiting list for prisons. You can be on the list for up to 5 years. When a bed is available, you'll be called and have to report for your sentence..
• The Vikings came in the 9th century. They choose to not have a king. In 13th century, they became part of Norway. In the 15th century, both Norway and Iceland became part of Denmark. After WW2, got independence from Denmark.  When Denmark was occupied by Nazi's, Iceland declared independence thinking it was safer. Also, because of the allied trips a stationed in Iceland, they had more money than ever before and could afford to be independent. 
• The first foreign language kids learn (at 10) if English. Because of its history, at 12, all kids àre taught Danish. So everyone knows a minimum of 3 languages. My guide knows 5.
• The only war Iceland was in was the Cod Wars. They fought with England over fishing rights (Great Britain was infringing on Iceland, and Iceland relies on the fishing industry, its #1 industry). Since Iceland has never had an army, they relied on the Coast Guard and fisherman to fight.  So got creative. Coast guard got giant scissors, out in water, would go up to the British boats and cut the fishing lines. Came to an agreement that the land within 200km belonged to Iceland for fishing, and the war ended. Iceland avoids becoming part of the EU for fear they would have to open up their waters to other countries for fishing.
• The eruption of the volcano in 2010 has significantly increased tourism, which is likely to match fishing as #1 industry in near future

ATV Fun & the Golden Circle - Nov 1

 This morning I went ATVing. The brochure said minimum of 2 or they would cancel the hike. I lucked out that they didn't. So I got a solo trip up to Mt. Hafrafell on the outskirts of Reykjavik.  It was the first time I have driven an ATV, and I had a blast.  I hated for the ride to end.

We went on roads, rocky paths, around rivers, and up the mountain. Along the way, i saw my first trees - pine trees. (When Vikings came, they cut down all the trees over 80-120 years, not realizing the island habitat wasn't conducive to growing more trees.)  At the top I could see Reykjavik and its suburbs. The wind was terrible at the top, just like normal. This was probably the 2nd worse (after the winds the night of the northern light hunt).

The gas for the ATV is a lever by the right thumb. I kept trying to move my thumb around to keep it from getting numb. I figured ATVers must do great at thumb wrestling.

Riding the ATV reminded me of my dad and snowmobiling during Christmas breaks.

I talked to the guide about what it was like growing up there. They learn 3 languages at school - Icelandic, Danish, and English. Danish because they ran Iceland until the 1940's (Denmark paid for them to learn Danish)

In the afternoon went back to the golden circle area, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet. (There are 7 major plates in the world).

I ran into my fake guide from yesterday. I thought he was going to be my guide, but I got a lady. She was filled with lots of "fun" facts. Like:

• Iceland has 62 golf courses which is the highest # golf courses/capita in the world (many world records per capita. Easy to do when only 320,000 people.)
• Iceland Has 130 (?) Active volcanoes
• Vikings used blocks of volcanic rock and turf to make houses (turf was used for the roof). It reminded me of my conversations with the kids regarding pioneers and how they had to use whatever natural resources they had available.
• Wrestling is their national sport (although soccer is their most popular).

We stopped for pictures at Þingvellir National Park, where the two plates meet. This is where 1000 men of the parliamentary first met in 930 and met for more than 1000 years.  It is also where Iceland declared is independence from Denmark. 

Then it's on to Gollfoss (Golden Waterfall). It is really two waterfalls, the upper at 35 feet and the lower at 100 feet.  The source of the name is not really known. A couple of theories have to do with rainbows or sunset color (I can't speak to with

out these a it rained the whole time) but more fun theory is that a rich farmer didn't want anyone to have his money after he died, so he threw a chest of gold into the waterfall, never to be seen again.  In late 1800 they planned to build an electrical power plant, but it never happened, thank goodness, as it would have altered the falls.

Last stop is at the geyser area. There are tons of hot springs there. The most famous, the great geyser, which 111became largely inactive in 2000, with two geyser shoots since, both due to earthquakes.  There is still one that shoots up, Strokkur. It is not as tall as the Great Geysir (115 ft vs 260 ft), but it erupts more frequently {8-10 minutes vs. 30-100).

By now it's raining quite a bit, so I grabbed a quick picture of the Great Geysir pool (which is not so great anymore), then lucked into three eruptions of Strokkur. Unfortunately I was way too close, so I didn't get a picture, just wetter.  I went further a way for a picture, and after 10 minutes of freezing rain, got a smaller eruption. I finally had to give up waiting for a larger eruption again.

Funny thing, on these bus a couple of times I smelled something weird and thought maybe I was stinking. But when I smelled myself, I didn't smell anything wrong. When the geyser went off on me I realized I had been smelling sulfur, likely from some geothermal pool we had passed (not me).

My daily rainbow. Good thing I saw it in the morning as the afternoon was totally rain. Only day I saw just one.

Volcanoes and Glaciers - Oct 31

Today is my longest excursion so far. It's also my largest group. Up to now I've gone with companies that limit to email groups. The cave was my largest at 16, but it was really 2 groups we combined together because we all got along so well.  Today there were 30.  I believe this is my only large group.

On top of that, we had a tight schedule, so I really did feel like I was being herded.  The good news is I come back to this area with another group my last full day. Between the two trips, that will be plenty of time.  My biggest complaint is that the window don't open and they're filthy. So there's no taking pictures of the scenery while we are driving.

So they picked us up at 7, which felt really early after staying out late searching Northern lights.  But I did it. I talked the restaurant concierge into letting me take the food to go, which we aren't supposed to do.

Or first stop was the Seljalandfoss waterfall. Then we stopped at the Skogafoss waterfall where I saw my only rainbow for the day.  We stopped for lunch in the early part of the glaciers, right by Eyjafjallajökull, the volcano that erupted in 2010 and some mountain that I think he said was the highest peak in Iceland. I heard him say the name, but the complex Icelandic names are hard enough to get. Then add a Spanish accent,

and its impossible. (Later I looked it up, it's Hvannadalshnjúkur, which is at the edge of the world's largest glacier, Vatnajokull, over 3 times the size of Luxembourg).

It seems every guide has a story about trolls to tell. These rock formations are supposedly the trolls that did not make it where they were going before daylight hit. I don't remember the rest of the story about these trolls, but really all of them have the same tenet: They are giant size, to be feared, and will turn to stone in daylight.

Last, we headed off to the glacier lagoon for a boat ride.  Along the way we saw lots of waterfalls, rivers, volcanoes, glacier tongues (first time I've ever heard that term), and mossed covered lava fields (much like yesterday; They must be everywhere here). I also saw my first animal - a swan. I guess if you go to the right place, you can see seals, foxes, lynx, and some birds, but there really aren't many animals here.

Eventually we ended up at our destination, the Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon.  It's a 25km lagoon which is at the base of a huge glacier and is filled with several large pieces of glacier and tons of little pieces, which have fallen into the lagoon and will make their way to the nearby ocean.  It was sad to see how much the glacier has decreased in the last 60 years (the glacier went all the way to the ocean until 60 years ago).  By the way, the lagoon has shown up in several movies, including James Bond's "Die Another Day".

The lagoon is where, somehow, I ended up with another tour group.  We were given half an hour to walk around before our boat ride. I got back in plenty of time, but honestly, we did not interact much on the bus. The only people I recognized was a couple from my hotel. In addition, throughout the day there were three tour buses that all went to the same places and often overlapped. So the people on the other buses looked as familiar as your own. I are lunch with a tour guide I thought was mine, but later realized was from one of the other buses. That's really I think what caused the trouble.

When I returned for the boat ride, I didn't really recognized anyone other than the couple from the hotel, and there were at least 50 people hanging around.  As we're waiting I went up to the one guide I are lunch with who was speaking Spanish with another guide and asked him if I was with him. He said yes. A l little later he said another group was in front of him and we should come back in half an hour (my 1st clue). So I did.  When we return, I'm talking to another couple and having a great conversation. In fact i was thinking how these guys were much more interactive when not in the bus (my 2nd clue).  Then they started talking about "the French family" (3rd clue).  We were talking about lunch and i mentioned the bus that arrived at the same time we did. No one knew what I meant. About then, they mentioned "gray line". I didn't go on gray line. They kept telling me I did, and almost had me convinced I was wrong. I realize something's not right and go up to the guide again. He again says I'm with him. I say something about him being from Barcelona, and he says no, here from Italy. He just speaks Spanish. About now

we're getting on the boat and I know something's wrong. I picture myself stuck in Jökulsárlón. I look over and there's my group. They had just gone.  I'm not

sure if I should go, but my" real " guide said to go ahead (later I found out the three on my bus who decided to go on the boat at the last minute want able to go until the boat after me). All this, and the boat ride was OK, but honestly, I enjoyed walking along the shore more. It was a small boat, and crowded. Sorry me had to hold my camera over my head to get any pictures.

So to end this, I get off the boat and there's my guide with the fake guide. I say something about getting on the bus to my real guide, and fake guide says, "you're going home with him? Why?" I explain I came with him, and he says, "no, you came with me".  At least I wasn't the only one confused.

On the way home we lucked into a northern light show. It was pale green, so still not bright, but easily recognizable (or maybe I'm just getting experienced at searching).

Spa, Caves, and Northern Lights - 10/30

I'm sitting in the water at the beach! Decided to go for a traditional Icelandic experience. Went to the Nauthólsvík beach. First I immersed myself in the ocean water, which is a brisk 35°-40°. Then I ran to the "hot pot", which is filled with 100°.

This going back and forth between the cold and how water is said to improve the immune system, blood circulation, and asthma. All I know is I coughed much less today and has a lot more energy. I hope to get back before I leave.

The hot pot was not as hot as I expected. I figured it would burn, especially after the cold of the ocean, but it was merely warm to me. I'm not sure if it was because the cold had lowered the temperature, or if I was dreaming.

It is funny to see people in their swimsuits wearing hats, gloves, and neoprene shoes.

It's later in the day, and i went cave exploring afternoon u went cave exploring.  The cave, which is really a lava tube, was formed over 1000 years ago from a nearby volcano.

I was fascinated by the moss covered spikey lava rock that covered the address outside the cave. There's a couple pictures of it in my room that I had noticed and wondered where it came from.

The tubes were formed when the outer crust of the lava chilled due to outside temperatures.  The lava on the inside kept flowing, making the tubes.

I had been in lava tubes in Australia and to very old collapsed caves in the Galapagos. So I was not sure I wanted to see them again. Sego, my Kathy twin from yesterday, talked me into it, and I'm glad she did. In Australia, the tubes we went in were huge and black in color. We did not go into the smaller ones like these. (On a side note, the other guide was a twin of Heidi K. Not just a similar personality and sense of humor, but build and voice).

 There were times I was able to stand in the cave, times I stooped a ways, and times I crawled without putting my knees on the wet ground.  I made it all the way to the back of the cave, which was not much much more than 2 feet tall.

They gave us helmets to wear, which was a good thing.  Not because of falling objects -after 1000 years, that's rare. The problem is how often you hit your head on the ceiling. I heard one of the ladies asking her husband how many times he would have knocked himself out if he didn't have a helmet. I knew exactly what she meant.  Although the helmet would not help my jacket. I was convinced i would tear it on the ceiling.

The lava was black outside the tube, but lots of red and a little yellow (sulfur) on the inside. the pictures don't do it justice.

As we got near the back, the guides turned off the lights for several minutes and one told Icelandic folklore about trolls, the 13 Icelandic Santas, a cat who eats bad children, etc (interesting tidbit, bad children don't get coal for Christmas, they get potatoes).

Although it was pitch dark with the lights out, so dark you couldn't are your hand in front is your face, it felt like you were seeing little bits of light. I'll have to ask my optometrist, but I wonder is it was the blood vessels in the eye. Or maybe I'm just seeing things.

We had to retrace or steps to leave. Near the end, there was an alternate route out of the cave for those who were interested. However, when they said I would have to crawl out using a pushup position sideways, I knew it was not for me

Spent the evening hunting for Northern lights.  On the way away from the lights off the town, we passed by Yoko Ono's "peace light" memorial to John. It's a big light in the sky.

Saw the Northern Lights, but it was not what I expected.  The leader kept saying they were pale green and pink, but I mostly just saw white. It sort of looked like back lit clouds. Then I saw the clouds moving a bit and a pop of orange on the edges. That was it. Later, the guide confirmed with a site that tracks magnetic waves, that there was one spike in the evening, the one we saw.

So I'm 3 for 3 on rainbows. Saw two more today, one, a full arch.

Snorkeling On Two Continents at Once - 10/29

With the late cancellation of my glacier trip today, I got the morning free and has a nice relaxing breakfast. I then went on an afternoon trip I booked this morning -  snorkeling the Silfra fissure, where the North American and Eurasian continents meet.  Well, sort of meet. In fact, there is a crack between the fissures, which is increasing very slowly. Thus the fissure.  But anyway, it is the only place where you can snorkel in the crack between two continental plates.  We snorkel in the upper part of the spring lake. Further down it gets bigger and dirtier.

The water is from the Langjökull glacier (wonderful name, huh. Pronouncing words is so painful here - I feel sorry for the natives who have to listen to me butcher their language).  The water is very clean, even drinkable. Although they encourage you to take a drink, mine was by accident. I got water in my breathing tube. It was very good tasting, I just wouldn't recommend that method.

 

The water is so clean because it is coming from the glacier via an underground spring, after being naturally filtered through old lava rocks.  The water stays at 25°-30° year around.  With the wetsuit, it was very comfortable, although the wind picked up horribly while we were in the lake, which made it very chilly while we were changing back into our street clothes.  It also made the water very wavy. At one point we had to go against the currents to get back to where we parked. The waves made it very difficult.  If it hadn't been for my guide, I might still be in a lake somewhere where I would have drifted.

Interestingly enough, while the Silfra fissure doesn't have any fish (just some algae), the lake it feeds, Thingvellir Lake, is a major fishing lake.

Continental Divide on land. Will see more of this later.

I was supposed to go on a northern lights for tonight. The report this morning was wonderful - they rated it a 4 for likelihood in seeing the lights. Everyone was excited all day long. Then the rain brought clouds that didn't go away and all the tours were cancelled. Luckily I still have some more nights to go out. A couple I went snorkeling with was counting on tonight because this was their last night and they had yet to see the lights.

Tomorrow I'm off to go exploring some lava caves.

Oh, by the way, Kathy B, I meet your sister from another mother today (sister doesn't follow quite as well as brother, but it fits).  My guide was slight like you, athletic, your bubbly personality, etc. We talked non-stop on the 1 hour car ride there and back (the 3 others joined us at the site). She is going to be my guide tomorrow too.

Until tomorrow...

By the way, I've seen at least one rainbow each of the days I've been here. One of them today was right over the church from yesterday

Here I Am Iceland - 10/28

I arrived in Reykjavik, Iceland at 6:30 am (that's 2:30 Cleveland time). My flight was uneventful, if long on layovers, and included the now typical going backwards in order to go forward (ie. Boston via Chicago).

During the layover in Boston, several of us started talking. One guy was a widower whose flight was free. He was supposed to be flying with his bride who works for the airline, this giving him privileges.  I think one of my nieces or nephews should get a job working for an airline so their favorite aunt can have free trips.

I checked into the room at 6:30 am, 4:30 am EST.  Although I slept most of the flight, I was exhausted, and decided a nap was needed before visiting the town.  Seven hours later I start out. The hotel has a nice service - free city bus card. Although I walked downtown, I took the bus back. Which was nice given it gets dark at 5:30.

The city was much smaller than I expected for the capital. You could definitely are the European, especially Scandinavian influence.  Thus the Facebook picture of me with the giant troll. 

My first visit was to the Hallgrimskirka, the 2nd largest building in Iceland. It is a Lutheran Church. You can see it from almost everywhere. In 2014, it was voted as one of the strangest buildings in the world. I went to the top of the tower and was able to see the whole city.  In front of the church was a statute of Leif Erikson, given by the U.S (since Leif discovered America long before Christopher Columbus) in 1930 to mark the 1,000th anniversary of the establishment of Iceland's parliament.

Stopped in a grocery the hotel recommended. As is typical in European cities, most groceries in town are small, pricey markets.  This one was more reasonably priced. It reminded me of the Mentor Aldi's.  Although, instead of coolers along the walls for dairy, etc, like we are used to, they had a giant cooler room with a door.

I had heard the cost of living was ridiculously high here. I found out when I ate dinner. A ”salad” (and I use the term loosely), which is grilled chicken with a few leaves of lettuce was $18. 

My trip to walk on a glacier had to be postponed due to weather.  I'll go Tuesday instead.

P.S.  found a place called the Chuck Norris Grill. Sayings on the window:

• Chuck Norris once kicked a house in the chin. Its descendants are known today as giraffes.
• Chuck Norris once took a lie detector test. The machine confessed everything.